PenyLane

Brisbane Fashion Festival

Brisbane Fashion Festival

It was always going to be a tough act to follow. Le Grande debut of the Valentino retrospective in Brisbane. And rightly so, I mean, over 40 years of experience in all things fabulous, a stash of awards that undoubtedly fill up a small wing in one of his homes, not to mention a body of work that has earned him a place amongst the greats. Yes, following the unveiling of such an exhibition might pale in comparison to our very own fashion festival, much like, say, watching an episode of 'Jersey Shore' after Citizen Kane....

That being said, the festival had a make-over out of necessity this year. While city hall undergoes its own facelift, Brisbane's fashion crowd were housed in an industry standard white tent on the shores of the big brown river at Southbank. Subsequently, this served as inspiration to a legion of girls who slicked themselves head to toe in fake tan to attend the line up of shows on offer. Jokes aside (well not really, some of these girls were quite orange/brown), the festival turned out a number of impressive shows with a number of names to watch.

Graduates Show

The Grad show is one of the freshest, most polished shows of the week and personally, one of my favourites. It is exciting to see the new breed of Australian fashion pack present their collections on Bambi legs. New concepts. New ideas. Commercial restraints not fogging a true vision.

Jessica Knell showed us what it was to take a hat and wear it...literally...taking simple millinery staples and incorporating them into the garments to create strong silhouettes and interesting textural qualities.

Elliot Ward-Fear took us to the future with spikes to kill and shoes that took models to the next level of loftiness while Danielle Van Camp presented a modern collection with undercurrents of Edwardian dressing. One of the stronger competitors was Ella Bailey who used marbling print silk and sheer fabrics to create a conceal and reveal collection. The contrast and fusion of the two materials used through a selection of shifts, jackets, blouses and pants made for a strong collection that came off incredibly sophisticated and mature.

The winner of the group was Christopher Dobosz, a young man we saw earlier this year in the Innovators show at Sydney Fashion week. Dobosz showcased a collection of sleek, form fitting pieces in a palette of black, titanium blue and camel. Inspired by Oscar Wilde�s novel �The Picture of Dorian Gray� the beauty of Dobosz's clothing lay in the detail. Many pieced garments where the joining seam becomes the feature and cut-outs were a subtle sexiness. It truly is exciting to see this calibre of design coming out of Australia at the moment.

Lady Petrova

From her finale collection on Project Runway, Petrova Hammond has come a long way to present her latest collection entitled 'Peace Hotel'. A range of clothing that offered more bang (and look) for your buck with a selection of garments that literally transformed with the drop of a sheer panel. Her collection was light, floaty and sugary sweet in a palette of pinks, lemons, lavenders and orange. It was a fusion of 60's nuances mixed with boudoir chic.

Paul Hunt

Paul Hunt has always wholeheartedly embraced the womanly shape, a look that seems right at home in the current fashion climate, and this collection was no exception. The classic 'new look' shape was interpreted into what could be described as European Royalty does cocktail hour. Fabulous full skirts in rich jewel tones paired with dignitary velvet ribbons and a slew of cocktail dresses, some of which had exquisite beaded tulle overlays. Picks of the collection included a peacock blue opera coat with crystal encrusted collar and a citrus green structured jumpsuit to which, in my mind I added huge sunglasses, a headscarf and heels and transported it poolside.

The Boutiques

Not sure why we are clapping them, I mean, its not like they designed the clothing....more just...chose it....for their store...to sell...for profit....but all the same, some boutique shows (much like the boutiques) held greater promise than others...

Lylah

I don�t know about you, but when a show begins with some sort of high impact stunt or a poem about a retired rock star (I�m talking about you Mr Cooper) being read to us as we sit in the dark, already judging I start to question whether the designer/boutique owner is compensating for lack of content. This however was not the case for Lylah. Serenaded by a troupe of pop-locking body rocking dancers, the boutique showcased its Kiwi labels including Zambesi, Nom'd, Kate Sylvester and Cybele, which all read together quite well. Styled cleverly with goat and deer trophy head embellished mini top hats, the show had me on my phone looking for their website in intermission...well done Lylah.

Pia Du Pradal

Yes...This is Ladies who lunch kind of Label...but set me a place setting and bring me a glass of the house wine if they are shopping from here. Its society with a twist, Cherry earrings, black Elbow length fingerless half sheer, half sequinned gloves and a multicoloured polka dotted full white skirt that would look spectacular worn with a bikini top in summer. Sure there was a lot of sensible suiting, but we did appreciate their sense of now for the more discerning lady.

The catwalk ponies

You can always spot a fresh model, the not quite there walk, the stunned pony look and the awkward extended pause at the end of the runway, to the point where you can see in their eyes the counting they are doing in their mind 'ok now hold it for 1..2..3....10 yaay I did it now step, step step'

Ok, now I am just stereotyping. It does however make the pro's shine..and this year it was Emma Power. 5'10', blonde haired, blue eyed, this girl was a fresh look amongst other...well...orange models. Hannah Glasby was back as well, but I don�t know, she's changed. Got a tan and a new golden blonde do. Call me sentimental but I loved her platinum blonde locks and porcelain skin look better - come home soon Hannah! Bitch can still walk though - don�t ever doubt that.

Bora

Oh Bora, I look forward to your show finales every year. Screw the clothing (silk stain, chokers and a crap-load of lace slapped on) the real show lies in the finale. This year, as per last year (and every year I am imagining) the audience was faced with the slightly awkward task of looking surprised and interested in the adoration of Bora by the common person. This year the finale began with 'the bride' of the collection walking out, arms outstretched as though she were about to be nailed to some sort of bad fashion cross. An awkward pause. Bora appears. Then, an adoring fan of Bora's work (not an employee of Bora's, i repeat, not an employee) springs from the audience to shower her with a bouquet of flowers. The plan then went pear shaped when the second employee, I mean fan, got up to give the 'bride' the next bouquet and under the pressure, cracked and ended up palming it off to the nearest model she could find. That was until Bora actually pointed out the correct recipient. Awkward. Chances are that employee is at Sarina Russo as we speak.

Hitting the Haute Notes

Hitting the Haute Notes

Words: Regan Pendergast
Images: style.com

�tis' the hap�.hap-piest season all year�cre-a-tivity flowing and seamstresses sewing so glad I am queeeeeeeeer.......It�s the most wonderful time of the year�

Well it�s that time of year when the fashion pack are feasting themselves on the sartorial delights that are being plated up. Cruise has been a bread roll, menswear has been served as a lovely appetiser, the ready to wear will be a delightful dessert. But in my opinion, Haute Couture is the hearty main course that literally replaces any source of food the fashion pack may have been eating...Who am I kidding? Fashion people don�t eat. This analogy is completely useless.

But in all seriousness, the season that sets the standard has passed, and with it, introduced some of the finest garments around. Bon appetite!

Christian Dior
Monsieur Galliano adorned his best florist�s chapeau (literally) and delivered a veritable bouquet of his favourite flowers. Taking his cue from the shapes and colours of his subject, Galliano created an ode to his favourite specimens, the first of which played on the classic tulip shape in a verdant lilac coat dress, cinched at the waist with strands of leaf green raffia and paired with blood orange leather gloves. It may be assumed that the subject of flowers may be taken down the beaten track of 'soft romance' but Galliano showed that his blossoms were indeed powerful women. These ladies were more poison ivy than shrinking violet.

Galliano has an innate way of taking the beautiful and pushing it to the extreme, the flora variety was no exception. He dissected the flower, pulling apart its petals, its layers, its stamens, its very nature and delivered it in fabric form. Light as a feather skirts blossomed from the waist; a myriad of silk organza petals creating upside down blooms, emerging from the seed pod-like peplums of mohair jackets. This is the type of gardening that would suit most women. And no flower would be caught dead leaving the garden incomplete. Models all adorned pod like hair that was carefully wrapped by Mr Jones like a dozen of the finest roses, in what looked like sheets of florists cellophane, while the classic Dior face was highlighted with a poison ivy purple lip and a shadow in fresh Jade or brilliant orange.Thank you Mr Galliano, flowers really were the perfect gift.

Givenchy
In his intimate salon viewings, Ricardo Tisci sighted his inspiration for the collection as being Frida Kahlo and her three obsessions in life; religion, sensuality and the human anatomy. Rather fitting considering Kahlo spent her entire life wrestling with all three, in particular, her struggle with back pain. It only seemed fitting that Tisci translate this into couture proportions. The collection consisted of only ten looks, but each and every one mesmerising in its detail and luxe of embellishment, some so much so that they were said to be difficult to lift (no walking in these ones. Just get yourself a good ol' fashioned lean board and look fabulous, have the party move around you, you are wearing couture for Christ sake).

Shapes were therefore kept rather simple, column gowns, cat suits, wide leg pants all delivered in a palette of white, beige gold and chocolate which allowed the embellishment to speak volumes. The spine served as quite a literal inspiration as lace was translated in skeletal like formation and accessories such as belts, cuffs and clutches were scaled sections of spine, flattened, proportioned and delivered as morbidly fabulous. Back pain has never looked so glamorous.

Chanel
As devotees of Chanel entered the Grand Palais, they were confronted with the largest bronzed statue of a lion known to man. Quietly standing there in the round, one giant paw resting regally on what looked like a giant pearl, from which the models emerged, it couldn�t have been a more fitting entrance. If the slightly daunting Lion didn�t set the mood for you, the clothing soon would. Chanel does Eastern Europe. Regalia in all its finest, well sort of. It was strangely subdued by Karl.

Using a palette of dulled jewel tones, he delivered a show that would have any modern day Romanov saying 'shoot me but don�t shoot my couture.' The Chanel tweed was delivered with soft sculpted shoulders in variations of classic suits, long coat dresses, and military double breasted buttoning with highlight on a voluminous half sleeve. High waisted skirts finished just on the knee while A-line skirts were of shin grazing lengths. It was the type of clothing that would look fabulous as you walk through a freshly snowed wood, you know, the kind that adjoins your palace...that being said, it was all kept respectfully modern and fresh, even if you don�t have a palace to call home.

Valentino
The phrase 'youthful couture' has been bandied around a bit, but as of the past couple seasons with new designers Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri at the helm the phrase seems to have established a home for itself with 'the new Valentino'. However, I just cant help but feel sorry for the hoards of elderly, extremely wealthy, women, that, as we speak, are wandering the streets of Paris, forced to frequent the likes of Elie Saab in order to get a floor length gown. What has this world come to? I can just see the couture clutch talking to each other before shows, starting sentences
with things such as 'I remember when Valentino did red...' these ladies are now shivering in the streets. Those poor, wealthy, wealthy ladies.....I digress.

But it is true, the new Valentino couture customer is younger. The show entitled 'The dark side of first love' opened with a slew of baby doll dresses, you couldn�t help but feel these Suri Cruise-esque lolitas (is it wrong that I can picture her wearing most of this collection?) are going to break hearts. The bow was used as a sweet motif and gave some rather angst pieces a touch of innocence. Piccioli and Chiuri stayed true to the house roots and used the classic colours, black, white and Valentino red with wafts of nude, silver, pale daffodil and rose blush. The younger vibe was contrasted nicely with classic couture shapes, ruffled hems, fluting and 'structure without structure' well, just somewhat shorter. With only four collections under their couture belt, Piccioli and Chiuri are still taking baby steps, but things are looking promising once they hit their full stride.

Jean Paul Gaultier
Did you know that Gaultier once released a song? I kid you not, it was called "Aow Tou Dou Zat." Its pretty hilarious, Gaultier to a Tee. So you might think that a show that took no direction from a theme would, much like the song, exude the fundamentals of Gaultier himself. But for the usually larger than life designer, his winter couture collection was somewhat subdued. He opened with a signature trench, cut just on the knee in satin black and paired with a fly away style turban. Cut to a simple black shift with sculptural, ribcage-like overlay, followed closely by another simple shift, which he Gaultified by a spike shoulder pad with vixen drape. He flexed his masculine meets feminie muscle with an exquisitely tailored jacket paired with sequinned pants. Liza can you hear me?

But you can�t help but feel that Gaultier hides behind a gimmick, this time it was in the form of Dita Von Teese who looked as though she could drown in a black, draped, shouldered number. Perhaps it is his elaborate past that makes his present self look somewhat safe, or is this new matured Gaultier? Call me biased but I kind of miss his elaborate cone bra days, any woman's best friend really, am I right?

Ready Steady Dress

Ready Steady Dress

Words: Peny Lane
Images: Rachel Burke

Rachel Burke

Fashion with heart? Do you buy it? Do you believe it? When designers and labels aim to give back to the community, however big or small, one can only hope that their intentions are genuine, although the term �clever marketing ploy� can�t help but spring to mind (thanks for making my cynical Gruen Transfer). While there is apprehension there, when a label�s intentions are indeed genuine one can only applaud and support a cause the marries the bold with the beautiful.

Rachel Burke is one such creative soul with only the purest intentions at heart. The Brissy girl has created �I make it/you wear it� a project that involves putting her sewing skills to the test in hope of raising $25,000 for Napcan, a charity that aids in preventing child abuse in Australia. The aim of the game is to make a different dress for her friends to wear out every Saturday night, and with a sort of �Ready, Steady, Cook� formula in mind (minus the annoying Peter Everett) is allowing herself only two to three hours to make each garment.

Through the power of the interwebs, the wise-cracking Rachel (pretty sure she�s a gay man trapped in a woman�s body) filled me in on the 411 of what the whole project is all about.

Where did them concept for �I make it/you wear it� come from?
The idea literally dropped into my head one day while on a walk. I was a bit lost after fleeing Musical Theatre School and wanted to
find a way to express myself creatively without someone handing me the opportunity on a silver spoon. I had been brainstorming ideas for a while, but my other ideas sucked. This idea did not seem to suck, so I went with it.

Why choose NAPCAN?
Prior to starting this project I only knew about a few charities � many of which already receive a mass of support by the media and public alike. So when it came to looking for a group to help I was conscious of finding one that didn�t seem to have a hugely popular profile, yet was nonetheless striving to achieve great work in the community.

NAPCAN focuses on the prevention of child abuse and neglect in Australia. Whilst I didn�t know about them before I started �i make. you wear it,� a small amount of research revealed how many lives they positively affect through their hard work and vigorous prevention campaigns. By getting them involved with this project I felt that it would provide them, not only with some extra financial support, but also with an opportunity to reach a wider audience.

What is your background in?
My background is in Acting and Musical Theatre. Whilst I have no professional training in sewing or design, somewhere along the way I became fairly adept with a needle and thread. This seemed to coincide with an interest (a little embarrassingly) with BBC costume dramas.

There was a time in my life when I took a liking to corsets and bonnets � they don�t make that shit in the shops so I was driven to learn to make my own. Whilst I have since moved on from renaissance-ising my wardrobe and shrouding my face in lace, those crucial years moulded my skills � and perhaps led me to what I�m doing today. How
concerning.

What style of dresses will you be making? Will the style change from week to week?
The dresses will be fairly eccentric, and approached more as wearable art than the sort of thing you�d wear to your first day at work or bikram yoga session. Each dress will be designed to fit the various likes/dislikes and personality traits of the model I am working with.

I want each dress to be something of a celebration of the wearer - the style of the garment will therefore alter according to the
persona of the model. For example, if I were to make a dress for Queen Elizabeth it�d have a bitching ruff and a mad drop waist.

What do you think will be the biggest challenge?
TRYING TO RAISE $25,000. It�s not that I�m expecting someone to just hand me a giant, novelty sized cheque with $25,000 stamped on it... but, I mean it would be totes nice...

What are you plans for after the project?
To be honest, I haven�t really thought too far ahead of this project. But, I am often haunted by visions of me running away to a field entirely comprised of gumball machines... maybe once this project has finished, I�ll spend some time making this fantasy a reality.

�I make it/you wear it� takes place on August 7th until January 1st. Show your support for the cause by heading over to http://www.imakeyouwearit.com/

Crystal Clear

Crystal Clear

Words: Regan Pendergast
Images: Style.com and Penylane.com

I know when I think of crystals I think of an early nineties Sunday Market stall I once visited, which was manned by a Patchouli smelling, earthy woman selling all sorts of pretty gems, some of which had the ability to 're-align my chakras' which according to her, were severely out. I never did buy that piece of Citrine, so you could say that my Charkas have been out ever since, but Mother Miuccia has prescribed me just the thing, and when Mother Miuccia speaks, we listen.

I would like to think of Miuccia Prada as some kind of sartorial mystic, fashions very own Nostradamus if you will, looking into the future and presenting trends that are seasons ahead of their time. When Prada presented her sleek raw edged vision of spring /summer 2010, she also introduced with it the new look of crystal, which like many things she introduces, had us questioning on its debut but later going 'ohhh I get it now'.

A Prada collection is like a puzzle. You are given all the pieces, you know the concept and It will always certainly unfold itself with time, but you have the initial air of unknowingness that makes more sense the more you look at it as a whole, until Voila, that crystal mesh slip would work with everything in your wardrobe. It just always seems quite shocking with Prada because it has that sense of uncharted territory, ss was the story for spring 2010 delivered in the form of mesh overlay shifts, skirts and tees, along with a bevy of bags and shoes that were equally adorned with clear chandelier crystals.

The next visitor to the crystal kingdom the following season was Karl Lagerfeld who played scientist and explored the frozen variety for Chanel. An arctic collection with frostings of icicle cuffs, necklaces and play on the clear ice cube motif. It�s ironic to describe it as hot given that the show was set against a giant iceberg. The Kaiser also trotted out a series of semi transparent box clutches that looked as though they had been carved out of great chunks of ice. Another favourite was a black suede quilted bag with shiny patent interlocking C�s that literally formed from melting ice cubes, but don�t try and put these ones in your drink.

Flash forward to Australian Fashion Week where the trend has trickled down to garnish some of the most fabulous southern collections.

Dion Lee presented sharp structural cage necklaces in which, there were suspended chunks of raw crystal. He adorned fingers with equally statement chunks and topped the collection off with a heel coated in spectacular home grown crystal.

Over at the other RAFW power label Romance Was Born, crystal made its appearance in a typical RWB kind of way. Great fluoro crystal clusters adorned as both necklaces and in the hair along with great fluoro Lucite horn headpieces. Can�t wait to see these worn at fashions on the field - the new fascinator as far as I am concerned. There was also thigh high gold and print boots well heeled with more fluoro Lucite that played beautifully with light.

Ellery were travelling light-years with their star dust encrusted shoe-boots and hefty sky high �I could take you out with my shoe� Lucite heels, while the poetic Arnsdorf took crystal to the 2D as a print but gave it 3D qualities through construction.

All in all, the smattering of all things crystal has been gaining momentum. So unless I am wearing my crystal ball come summer, gazing into it I see that crystal has become a trend de jour. Head to your local market and make a b line straight for the customary crystal stall, Get in tight with the fragrant long haired maiden, possibly dressed in a long sleeved medieval number, and stock up quick.

Regan's Writeup - RAFW 10/11

Fashion Week Wrap Up

What is it about the Logies and fashion that just don�t quite add up? I mean come on people, the Logies are on Sunday night and fashion week begins the very next day - perfect timing no? Apparently not. It seems that while the designers and stylists are in Sydney gearing up for shows, hunger and even hungrier models (it�s the hunger that makes fashion people so fun), the celebs have apparently gone to town at their local Valley Girl in preparation for the event. Hats off to Claudia Karvan for her chic black ensemble but as for the rest - we think that perhaps the hangover began on the red carpet.

So in the spirit of award ceremonies, I have created a set of awards for the high (and low) achievers of Rosemount Australia Fashion Week.

Best Show

RWB theme this season was �Renaissance Dinosaur,� which can only evoke the wildest of expectations. An incense smoking runway of gravel, fern and rocks littered with dinosaur curios, garnished with the sounds of a prehistoric swamp was truly magical. Anticipation was built by the increasing thunderous footsteps of what we can only imagine was a RWB dinosaur delivering models to the runway. Girls emerged from a forest and were soon, literally stomping the runway. Subtle is not a word in the RWB dictionary. It was a case of Spanish senorita meets Jurassic jezebel in an emotion charged presentation. A custom print, sheer bodysuits, senorita buns, reptilian sequins, fake nails, nay, talons adorning not only the models hands but also making for an interesting sequin style detail on dresses. Lace, crystal jewellery, knee high boots, a volcano dress complete with spewing lava hairstyle and a finale of bride riding atop of her grooms shoulders. Words really can�t do this collection justice, but it speaks volumes when the crowd are all upstanding and screaming in support for this design duo that stand alone in the Australian fashion landscape.

Shoe Award

From skyscraper 18cm geisha wedges at Elliott Ward-Fear (his real name, I�m slightly jealous) to buttery leather bandage heels at Manning Cartell, we saw all that there was in catwalk creepers. There were a number of contenders for the award, from the dinosaur print knee high and Lucite heel boots at Romance Was Born, to Ellery where there was feather trimmed charcoal suede platform boots and Lucite heel stacked platforms.

But the award would have to go to Mr Dion Lee. His collaboration with shoe doyenne Terry Biviano had her saying that �it would be the death of her�. These shoes had me at hello. The final product was one of pure genius. Sensible sandal toes with ankle strap from the front, cold ice from the back. Yes, the boy created a heel shaft made from home grown crystal. You know the type you got in science kits as a kid? For this, Mr Lee wins - at everything.

He may make one hell of a gown but I bet he is thanking his lucky stars that he didn�t make the shoes. The Tony Bianco for Alex Perry heel had us holding our breath and thanking the lord we weren�t models having to trek the 65 metre runway. Yes, they were a basic nude strappy, but the heel was seen on a number of occasions to be caving under pressure, and let�s face it, with those waif models, it wasn�t an issue of weight. We think this one needs to go back to the drawing board.

Six Blogs from Sunday Award

There was much hype and controversy surrounding the idea that RAFW was being invaded by bloggers wanting to make their mark and stake their opinions on all things fashion. On media pit marking day (the Sunday before fashion week begins where photographers and film crews mark out there spots in the media pit based on their accreditation, it sounds innocent but I swear there have been hospitalisations surrounding this event) we were told that over 30 bloggers had been turned away from any sort of accreditation and that only a select group had been chosen. The real excitement surrounded the international contingent including Susie of Stylebubble.com, Tommy Ton of Jakandjil.com, Phil O from streetpeeper.com, Garance Dore from garancedore.fr and her partner Scott Schuman AKA the Sartorialist.

But I must admit, the hype fell a little short with the busy bloggers reporting in dribs and drabs. Garance was spotted once at Ellery, Scott Schuman wasn�t seen at all, Tommy Ton arrived on the Thursday, and we only saw Phil take a couple of pics.

For best and most thorough coverage, Matthew Peroz for RAFW did an amazing job, his label overviews and on the spot collection rundowns were a clear picture of what each show was about delivered in real time. Well done. Another blogger award goes to Susie Bubble. Straight off the plane, she fought jetlag and went straight into visiting some notable designer�s studios and gave behind the scene views of some of the shows. It was interesting to get a RAFW newbies perspective on the whole event. Nicely covered Susie.

Production Award

1000 guests, a 65 metre catwalk, an unfolding succession of spotlights and enough tulle to shut Vera Wang up. The Alex Perry �Arabian Princess� show was quite the spectacle. I could name the celebrities but if you were tall, blonde, and love a good frock you were there.

Hype Award

Gail Elliot for Little Joe = much a-hype about nothing. Many rumours were spread during the week about the possibility that the label would be host to a mega pair of legs. First it was said to be Gail�s bestie Cindy Crawford and later, Helena Christensen. Gail fed rumours when in an interview was asked who would be attending the show, a coy Gail answered �everyone will be attending�. Many sighed when the last look walked out expecting to see one of the super walkers, instead, Gail did the final lap. Talk about build me up buttercup.

Hi�you�re a Douche award

When you are asked to be on the panel of judges for the New Generation show, please don�t sit in the front row and proceed to talk and get the attention of front rowers opposite you. Yes you Wayne Cooper. This show actually helps in assisting emerging labels who unlike you don�t have a sweet Myer deal to thank god for. The least you could do is pay attention to the collections and quite possibly, learn something. Less talk-y more design-y Wayne.

The Dream of McQueen

March 9 in a quiet salon in the heart of Paris. The delicately gilt walls and the parquet floor echo the sound of footsteps. Karlie Kloss enters wearing a royal red, long sleeve dress ornately embellished with gold filigree and finished with a decadent concertina skirt finishing just above the knee. It was the first of 16 looks that would be the final collection from Alexander McQueen.

I woke on the 12th of February to the scrawling bio of Alexander McQueen on FTV. A state of confusion washed over me as I read his name being used in past tense�..and then 1969 -2010. Surely this was a stunt. Today�s technology allows for such instantaneous delivery of information but in the process allows for factual truth to be blurred. This had to be one of those cases. It wasn�t until news reports were coming through that I found myself, sadly, actually starting to believe.

How does one sum up the life�s work of one of the fashion worlds eminent geniuses?�.The answer is, you cant. It is literally impossible. A genius, yes, understood? Not all the time.

Alexander �Lee� McQueen was a rare talent. The clarity of his vision so pure and executed with such precision, each garment presented was a story of who he was and the message he wrote as a designer.

But how to describe the garments he created? His manipulation of fabric was the result of a background of experience taken from the likes of Savile row at Anderson and Shephard and later Gieves and Hawkes. He then moved on to the theatrical costumiers Angels and Bermans where he would learn 6 methods of pattern cutting. McQueen also worked for designer Koji Tatsuno in London and a year later and Romeo Gigli in Milan. On returning to London, McQueen applied to Central Saint Martins as a pattern cutter tutor. However, his portfolio impressed the school so much, he was persuaded to enrol as a student. By the time he was graduating from Saint Martins, he was already creating a buzz. The Buzz turned into a bang when eccentric stylist Isabella Blow famously purchased his entire graduating collection. McQueen was finding his feet.

With his portfolio of experience, it seemed natural that in 1996 he would be appointed head designer for Givenchy where he would produce his first couture collection.

He created controversy when in and interview with Vogue he labelled his first couture collection as �Crap�. Ripples turned to waves when he shocked audiences by sending amputee model Aimee Mullins down the runway with a pair of custom, ornately carved, wooden legs. He finished with Givenchy in March 2001 claiming there was a difference of creativity.

His creative range went from extreme elation, the joyous and the whimsical to the deepest and darkest most confronting of subjects. Collections always balanced on the knifes edge with the juxtaposition of opposing forces: ugly against beautiful, strong against fragile, modern against tradition, delicately mashed together and sewn into works of art that would walk the runway. His tailoring, was impeccable. He brought a tailored line back to fashion, yet he also had the ability to drape in such a light effortless way that clothing appeared to float. His use of print was incomparable. Seams became invisible and the print appeared as though hand painted on the body.

McQueen�s message was one of the most raw and honest in the fashion world, external forces would never change what McQueen declared he �had to do as a designer�. This was demonstrated in some of the landmark shows he presented.

�Show� really doesn�t justify what McQueen created. Theatrical production maybe, Spectacle? Perhaps. His creative vision encompassed not only the clothing but the way in which it was displayed.

Who else could have had the vision to produce a giant chess board and have models literally play a human game of chess in his �It�s only a game� collection? Or who would have tulle wrapped a tree and surrounding runway Christo style for �The girl who lived in a tree� collection. Not to mention the blackened pile of debris that lay in the middle of a giant square of cracked mirror tile in �Horn of Plenty�. Or perhaps in �Natural Dis-tinction, Un-natural Selection� where models emerged from a veritable Noah�s ark of stuffed animals. To perhaps his most recent and memorable collection, a clinical, mechanical runway that that almost threatened the reptilian- like life that walked it in their claw like shoes in his �Platos Atlantis�.

Most designers who create elaborate sets for their designs find that the integrity of the clothing is jeopardised against the bigger picture of the production, but in the case of McQueen, the clothing and the set formed a marriage of equality that gave McQueen a stronger point of view. Each show was a landmark in fashion history.

One can only imagine what McQueen had planned next. I think we all forget the fact that in only the space of 20 years, McQueen made an impressionable mark on the fashion landscape, a mark which some designers spend their entire lives trying to mould and create. In such a short space of time, he created not only icons of the fashion world but of the wider cultural world as well.

The �Bumster� pant, the skull motif, a palette of feathered gowns, the moulded gold breastplate of fall 07, the bleeding colour kimono style gowns of s/s 08, the Faberge egg clutch of f/w 08,. Shalom Harlow in a stroke of instant fashion genius as her blank canvas dress is painted by two robotic machines in s/s 99.

More recently, any number of houndstooth garments paired with an over accentuated lip and coke can hair accessory in f/w 09, the staggering 12 inch �armadillo� shoe, in fact, any highly printed gown from his Platos collection. These are the pieces that shaped the fashion world.

His artistry was not only a pleasure to witness but a privilege. Collections like his re-ignited the spark that is often lost in fashion or compromised for saleability. His life was dedicated to exposing his soul through the media of fashion. The passion and drama of fashion, the seams of his being.

As a formfitting gold feathered jacket worn over a fishtailing full tulle skirt laced with gold embroidery made its way into the quiet salon, it can be seen who Alexander McQueen was.

Designer
Artist.
Genius.

Alexander McQueen 1969-2010

�It's Only a Game� collection S/S 05 - http://media.onsugar.com/files/2010/02/06/4/166/1668379/712945961aaab306_679D2981.xxlarge.JPG

�The Girl Who Lived in the Tree� Collection F/W 08 -
http://eaesthete.files.wordpress.com/2008/03/mcqueen.jpg

�The horn of plenty� Collection F/W 09 - http://media.onsugar.com/files/2010/02/07/4/191/1913634/7196cccf1f3fc072_mcqueen.xxlarge.jpg

�Natural Dis-tinction Un-natural Selection� collection S/S 09 - http://alexandermcqueen.scene7.com/is/image/alexandermcqueen/...

�Plato�s Atlantis� collection S/S 10 -
http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_krbpiwrwWk1qa199k.jpg

The �Bumster� pant -
http://www.style.com/blogs/stylefile/wp-content/uploads/cdocuments-and-settingslsteinbedesktopmcqueenpants_blog.jpg

Skull Motif

Red and black feathers and red glass S/S 01 -
http://www3.fitnyc.edu/museum/gothic/images/mcqueen.red.jpg

�In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1962� collection F/W 07 - http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/F2007RTW/AMCQUEEN/RUNWAY/00200m.jpg

Faberge Egg Clutch, �The Girl Who Lived in the Tree� Collection F/W 08 - http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_nd0x6HRO4QU/SKs41ZIeEAI/AAAAAAAAE8s/0XfE7bR0DGM/s1600-h/Alexander+McQueen+Empire+bag+with+Swarovski+detail.jpg

Kimono Style Dress, �La Dame Bleue� collection S/S 08 - http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2008RTW/AMCQUEEN/RUNWAY/00380m.jpg

http://clickadiary.files.wordpress.com/2010/02/mcqueens99.png

Shalom Harlow �Vandalising Fashion� S/S 99 -
http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/pub/21publish/fashion/Shalom-Harlow.jpg

�The Horn of Plenty� collection F/W 09 - http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/F2009RTW/AMCQUEEN/RUNWAY/00010m.jpg

�The Horn of Plenty� collection F/W 09 - http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/F2009RTW/AMCQUEEN/DETAILS/00140m.jpg

�Armadillo� shoe, �Plato�s Atlantis� collection S/S 10 - http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2010RTW/AMCQUEEN/DETAILS/00730m.jpg

�Plato�s Atlantis� collection S/S 10 - http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2010RTW/AMCQUEEN/RUNWAY/00010m.jpg

Death of a Dandy

Unlike its uber paced sister, menswear is far more resistant to seasonal trends and can be slow to find a new direction. Steeped in a tradition of utility and comfort, throwaway trends and highly individual styles are a lot less likely to take hold of the established order that is the men�s fashion industry.

It is by these standards that the fall 2010 shows represented something of a complete revolution, as almost across the board, brands of all shapes and sizes seemed to be on the same wavelength. The message? Get tough or die trying...

For fall 2010 the image is one of the street wise-outcast; live by your wits, don�t take anything from anyone and dress with attitude. A profusion of leather erupted from all corners, and even heralding the return of the leather pant (!?) Fur was also conspicuous as trims on hoods, linings of jackets and warming all those thin necks. Models also emerged swathed in long flowing floor length overcoats that made and interesting counterpoint to short length of suits.

The biggest trend by far however, was the boot. Whether dressed up and worn with a suit or more industrial, the look could be seen on almost every runway, with many shows styling the trouser to be tucked inside the boot. From Milan through Paris this image was constantly repeated and reinterpreted, this may not seem like anything new for most menswear observers, but what was new was that this wasn�t just a few leading individual designers, even conservative mega global brands who�s archives go back to the 19th century were pushing the collective envelope.

Traditionalists such as Pringle Of Scotland, Zegna, Canali, Armani, Ferre and Dunhill to name but a few, left their heritage at a respectful distance while embracing this seasons street warrior, perhaps in a attempt to emulate such designers as Christopher Bailey at Burberry or Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin , who�s fusion of trend and tradition has led to success in the editors office as well as on the shop floor.

Meanwhile at the other end of the spectrum, avant- garde brands such as Galliano, Raf Simons, Comme des Garcons, Rick Owens, Maison Martin Margiela and Junya Watanabe all reined in their wilder sides and presented some of their most accessible collections in recent memory. The defined style resulted in menswear that seemed more unified for the first time since Heidi Silmane began shaking things up at Dior. And yet at the same time menswear has never seemed more open for a dialogue as to what the modern male should look like. Perhaps it takes the threat of financial meltdown for people to put aside their differences and rally together. Who says fashion isn�t political?

- David

Mad About Hats

Anna Piaggi wears many. John Galliano has been known to theme his for show finales. Isabella Blow was a loyal Devotee, and while Jackie Kennedy was working the pillbox, Audrey was taking hers to Tiffany's. Yes, its a fashion rubixs cube, the one and only - the hat.

As we sit on the cusp of yet another year....and if I were Chinese and trying to name a fashion zodiac equivalent, I would say that 2010 is the year of the hat/ headpiece.

Your colour: well anything as long as it works with your complexion (I never said I was a Chinese mystic)
Your stone: mmm cocktail ring, make it big.
Lucky Month: March, as we anticipate the arrival of Stephen Jones's exhibition 'Hats: an anthology' Making its debut stop at Brisbane�s Gallery of Modern Art.

The exhibition opens a window into the world of millinery, from the creative geniuses that conjure up flights of fancy for the head, to the clients that adorn them.

Bringing together over three hundred masterpieces of the millinery kind, Jones sorted through countless archived pieces from the V&A Museum, forming the core of the collection and sourced other fine specimens from fellow designers, and private collections.

Standout pieces include hats from the Ascot racing scene in 'My Fair Lady' and a plethora of designs from Jones's long time collaboration with John Galliano of Galliano and Dior, who testifies that he 'couldn�t do a show without Stephen Jones, he is the frosting to any collection he touches.'

Jones admits that the popularity of the hat has been more erratic than Kanye at an awards podium, but stands by the fact that they have never gone out of style.

�Once upon a time, it was natural for every outfit to have an accompanying hat, you wouldn�t leave the house without one.�

Obviously times have changed as it now seems perfectly normal to leave the house without underwear - Spears, Lohan...I'm looking at you ladies. Jones partly attributes low points in hat history to changing hairstyle trends. Think about it, how were you going to balance that Philip Treacy creation on top of an eighties poodle perm?...I didn�t think so.

So why 2010 year of the hat? Why not I respond. If an upcoming exhibition wasn�t enough to get you on the bandwagon, what will?

As the Moon enters Saturn's path in the fifth quarter (yes...getting all mystic again) and the year of the shoulder fades slowly in the wake of the hat, special mention must also go to another ambassador for the hat in this month.

Johnny Depp (who looks a little like Elijah Wood in this role, you agree?) brings hatting to the big screen with the anticipated release of Tim Burton�s visually delicious 'Alice in Wonderland'. Yes... that's right, the humble chapeau will be thrust upon the masses, well, their heads at least, with such gusto that only Depp and Burton could deliver.

Furthermore, Recession, recession, recession. Seriously, best excuse ever. The shoes became skyscrapers, hemlines almost became panty lines, and shoulders got big, real big. Let�s face it people, things have just been moving up, and what better place to land next than on the head.

Finally, as Christian Dior once wrote in his dictionary of style, 'the hat is the quintessence of femineity with all the frivolity this word contains, it is the completion of your outfit and the best way in which to show your personality'. I dare you to argue with the father of style.

So, as you enter the coming year, do the fashion gods a favour (Anna Piaggi is one of them, and she is watching) and don your head with an exclamation point, the final touch, that little sum�em, sum�em pretty,...put a hat on it.

- Regan

Tame Impala

Tame Impala

While we all thought that Australian-made-psychedelic-rock had been killed by the ego of Wolfmother�s Andrew Stockdale, turns out three young shaggy haired boys are coming through the ranks to carry the torch of soaring guitar solos and deep seventies bass worthy of Steppenwolf, Cream and The Doors. Goodie. After playing every music festival under the sun last summer, Bass Guitarist Dom Simper of psychedelic rock pop sensation Tame Impala took time out to chat to me about Japanese crowds, Massive Attack and their hotly anticipated album, before enjoying some well deserved down time.

What is on the cards for you over the summer?
We played almost all the festivals over the summer period last year and the festivals organizers have a policy of not booking the same acts 2 years in a row so it should be a lot quieter for us this year, a bit of a holiday for us after almost 10 months of solid touring, it will be a good break.

Summersonic in Japan looks like a great festival, did you enjoy playing there?
It was an incredible experience; we shared a stage with Sonic Youth, Grizzly Bear and The Flaming Lips, it was pretty ridiculous. The Japanese crowd is all really polite too, when you�re playing they all stand still in complete silence and when you finish they clap really loudly and then go silent again and wait for us to start the next song, it�s quite eerie. They really watch us play, taking everything in, absorb all our songs which is nice.

Your EP has been a great success, should we expect a full length album anytime soon?
We went into recording in June actually. We hired out a beach holiday house a couple of hours south of Perth, filled it up with gear and just went at it for about a month. We got everything recorded and we are just putting the polish on it, mixing it in our bedroom.

I�m very excited about it, the EP is pretty old now and it�s just really great to be having some new material almost ready to show to everyone, although, one track from the EP will be on the full length album but that will be alongside around 12 brand new tracks.

How did your cover of Massive Attack�s �Angel� come about?
We had to play a show for Ben Sherman in Sydney and were asked to do a cover of a British band, it was quite spontaneous and it just worked so we went with it. It�s not something we will ever record though, we prefer to keep it special and just play it at live shows sporadically.

If you could support any band live, who would it be?
That�s a hard question, other than the obvious big ones like The Beatles I guess I would love to play with Portishead, they just don�t tour though. Radiohead would be absolutely amazing too.

I see you guys are playing DJ sets too, how are you enjoying those?
We really just love playing music, although they are not really DJ sets as such, more just us playing songs off our Ipods but it�s still a heap of fun. The more chances we get to do that the happier we are.

Finally, what have you been listening to lately and what was the last album you lost your shit over?
A lot of beat driven, electronic stuff actually, people like Diplo and Blue Sky Black Death. I�ve also been meaning to give Flying Lotus a listen too; I�ve heard good things about him but just haven�t got around to it.

I really love the Santigold album, I only just got into it in the last month or so but I have definitely been getting right into it, I would highly recommend it.

www.tameimpala.com/

- Chris

Ful Circle

After spying quite a few gorilla and crocodile print tees in the crowd at the recent QUT graduate fashion parades, its clear that after only 3 years of running his own label, Christopher Kane has well and truly made his fashion mark. Its strange to think that a young Scottish boy who began his collection fresh out of school in 2006, is now not only admired but accessible to the young hipsters all over the world, including, of all places, Brisbane. That I guess is the power of great design, and mass production (thanks top shop).

After only a few years ago Kane was making small waves in the fashion community, that ended up reaching as far as the southern hemisphere, so too now is a young Scottish girl by the name of Holly Fulton.

Fulton�s showing at London Fashion Week, her second collection since graduating from the Royal College of Art, has seen her name sky rocket into neon lights. Much like Kane, who attracted the attention of Donatella Versace early on in his studies, Fulton is also an accessories designer with French house Lanvin.

Turning her vision to the New York skyline, Fulton�s bold collection of neon (yet again another similarity to Kane�s early collection of neon bandage dresses) graphic pop art prints, and mechanical Perspex and Swarovski embellishments, pulled the 1960s mod style of futurism into a nu rave world of colour and cool.

�I believe the sheer amount of work and processes involved in producing my work makes it slightly unique,� says Fulton, who won the Young Designer of the Year Awards at the Scottish Fashion Awards this year. �I love the extra dimension working with different materials has brought to my design, from crystallised elements to electrical cables.�

These extra dimensions are flawlessly incorporated into her designs, never obstructive or overpowering the simple silhouettes, and her fabric choice and finishes are both avant-garde and ready to wear in a disco heart beat.

Fulton�s energetic use of bold hues and shapes can easily be compared to that of fellow Brit labels Basso and Brook, Peter Pilotto and even Carrie Mundane. It has also been reported that another equally lovable Carrie, last name Bradshaw, is set to wear one of Fulton�s electric styled get ups in the up and coming Sex and the City sequel.

So from Scotland, to Sarah Jessica, and soon, who knows? I have no doubt we�ll be seeing the name Holly Fulton in the near future, and perhaps her own mark on the fashion world. Top Shop can you hear me?

www.hollyfulton.com/